Ultra light weight adjustable cam gear for the Ford 2.3 mini stock engines. These adjustable gears eliminate the need for the large steel factory belt guide washer as they are machined directly into these gears, the only such 2.3 gear with this design. What this allows is for adjustment of the gear by simply loosening the small bolts without the need to loosen the large center bolt like with other designs. This cam gear is 8 ounces lighter than the stock cam gear, a significant amount when it's reciprocating.

We've used all the different types of cam gears over the years and this is the absolutely the best design available. We started selling them after the first time we used one and realized how much better they were than others.

Features (August 2024 Updates):

Cam gear is now machined from 7075 Aluminum for almost twice the hardness of 6061. All the competitor gears are made from 6061.
Outer gear now has a PTFE coating in the anodizing for reduced friction and protect from rubber build up.
The 4 bolts locking bolts have been rotated 45° so the timing marks are not obstructed by the nut
Eliminates the original front washer and factory bolt.
ARP 12pt mounting bolt with integrated washer is included.

Gears feature ARP nuts and bolts to eliminate stripping of the aluminum due to repeated use. These gears are designed using 3D modeling and FEA testing to provide the lightest Ford 2300 adjustable cam gear on the planet.

We mark these gears with a small dot where the stock timing mark would be so you can easily install it like a stock gear without checking cam lobe location if using a stock cam which removes a ton of hassle/aggravation/confusion during the installation. This is not something any other company offers with this gear or any other.

Allows 8 degrees of adjustment in both directions (advance or retard), each mark is 2 degrees. Advance the cam to move the power band to a lower range, retard it to move the power range and peak power point higher.

Before removing stock cam gear, set engine to TDC on the compression stroke (cam timing mark aligned with stock timing marks, or pointing directly at auxiliary shaft centerline if no stock marks exist). If using an aftermarket cam, you can use the mark to get it close but you should find true TDC with a piston stop, mark TDC on the timing pointer (or use our billet adjustable timing pointer), then pull the cam cover and use the "e-bar" method to align the cam to 0 degrees and adjust this cam gear so it aligns with the belt when everything else is set to TDC/zero deg. Wherever this gear is set is your true "straight up" cam position and you can adjust either way from there to move the power band up/down.

We have both the Round Tooth Profile or Square Tooth Profile. Square tooth is stock on 2.3 turbo applications. Ford Rangers were round tooth starting around 1992. Picture shows Round Tooth Version. These cam gears fit all Lima 2.3 and 2.5 engines from the late 70's to the the last year the Lima engine was used in the Ranger in 2000. The detail that's important is verifying whether you have a square (91 or so and older) or round tooth (92+) application.

Includes:

Adjustable Square Tooth Cam Gear (Round Tooth Shown in Pics)
ARP Mounting Bolt w/Integrated Washer
Timing Belt (Optional)
Timing Belt Tensioner (Optional)
Billet Adjustable Timing Pointer (Optional)

Installation Tips:

Before removing stock timing belt assembly, set engine to TDC on the compression stroke (cam timing mark aligned with stock timing marks, or pointing directly at auxiliary shaft centerline if no stock marks exist).

Be sure to seal the threads of the cam gear mounting bolt with RTV or any type of thread sealant as the cam center bore contains pressurized oil and it will leak and make a mess of the entire front of your engine if you don't seal the threads during installation.

If using an aftermarket cam, you can use the mark to get it close but you should find true TDC with a piston stop, mark TDC on the timing pointer (or use our billet adjustable timing pointer), then pull the cam cover and use the "e-bar" method to align the cam to 0 degrees and adjust this cam gear so it aligns with the belt when everything else is set to TDC/zero deg. Wherever this gear is set is your true "straight up" cam position and you can adjust either way from there to move the power range up/down.

Torque Specs: